Creaking Floorboards Driving You Crazy?

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Have you got chipboard floorboards under your carpet that creak and squeak when somebody walks over them? We had one of those 'while you are here' requests from somebody while we were filming a shower installation. Jeff has his in-laws over quite often and when his father-in-law goes to the toilet in the middle of the night, he and his wife are woken by the sound of creaking squeaking floorboards directly above their bedroom. As with many other problems, Roger has seen it all before and has a solution, so here is our 'how to fix a creaking floorboard' video and it only takes around £15 of materials including some watered down PVA glue and some screws (NOT nails). Floorboards DIY Creaking =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Get in touch and send us your pictures and videos - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page -



Building an Extension #8 - Cutting Roof Timbers

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In Part 8 Robin switches from the Capel Build to Roger's extension to build the roof and show us all his tricks of the trade. We see how to cut a bird's mouth (or bird's beak if you're in the US) and how the roof comes together. =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Get in touch and send us your pictures and videos - Join our mailing list - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page -



Fake Brick Wall - Bostik Faux Brick Effect Render

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Sponsored by Bostik, Are you trying to get a brick wall look without bricklaying? Try using the Bostik Brick Effect Render system. The faux brick wall system is applied in two easy steps, starting with a grey mortar undercoat. Once this is touch-dry it's followed by a coloured face coat which is cut through with a specialised tool included in the pack to expose the grey mortar underneath, creating a brick and mortar joint effect. Both coats are polymer modified render, offering excellent adhesion and weather resistance whilst remaining vapour permeable. Andrew Hamman, category manager for Bostik, commented: “With the summer months approaching, merchants are likely to see an increase in demand for external renovation and refurb products. Our new Brick Effect Render system provides a simple, effective way to revive the appearance of walls that may need to be updated – such as garden walls or prefabricated buildings.” =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Join our mailing list - Visit our website - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page - See our Pins -



What's the Best Mix for Perfect Rendering?

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Roger helps you get the perfect ratio for your rendering mix. So what's the best mix for rendering? It all depends on what you're rendering on to. The golden rule is you never make the mix stronger than the material that you're going on to. For example lightweight concrete block that's 3.6kN so we don't want a really strong mix for this because if the wall moves, which it will as you always get some expansion and contraction as the seasons change, you don't want the render to be the thing that stops the wall from moving otherwise the render will crack. If you've ever wondered why does render crack, often this is a reason. Also if you put too much cement in render it shrinks back and it will crack. People don't always believe that, lots of people do a 3:1 mix and say it's nice and strong but that won't stop it cracking because there's no real tensile strength in it so there's no point putting too much cement in. Why lime helps make the best mix for rendering Instead we make a 6:1:1 which is six parts of sand, one part of cement and one part of hydrated lime. The sand must be plastering sand or rendering sand, not building sand - do not use building sand for rendering because it shrinks and cracks. Sometimes you can add some building sand to the mix for the base coat but it shouldn't be your primary sand. It's important not to put more than one part lime to one part cement because hydrated lime won't set on its own, you need the cement to help it set. But the lime does give the mix body and make it creamy and gives it a certain amount of elasticity so that if the building moves the render will go with it a bit and if you do get a crack the lime in the mix will move into the crack and re-calcify to some extent. In a way it is self curing and self rendering. A lot of renderers don't use it and prefer to use plastisier which puts lots of bubbles into the mix which is a good thing but the lime is better as we demonstrate in this video. Roger also discusses the best weather for rendering. =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Get in touch by email - contact@skill-builder.uk Send us your pictures and videos - Join our mailing list - Visit our website - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page - See our Pins -



Create a Tusk Tenon & Mortise Joint Like a Pro

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Sign up via our link and get two FREE months of Skillshare Premium: Following the success of our scarf joint video, Robin shows you how to create a classic tusk tenon joint. We'll have more woodworking masterclass tips and hacks and types of wood joints from Robin Clevett soon. This video was sponsored by Skillshare. Carpentry Woodworking TuskTenon ================================================ Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



Stud Work Like a Pro with Robin - Capel #10

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Get your stud framing in like a pro! Robin shows you how he cuts and installs his stud work frames quickly and accurately. Did we mention he loves Stabila? He's very happy with his new Stabila Telescopic Spirit Level. Stabila 106T-183 Extendable Spirit Level 3 Vial 183-315cm: How to Build a Stud Wall with Robin Clevett. The Capel Build is coming along slowly but surely and we'll be spending more time inside from now on and the next episode will show you Robin's MVHR system from Lindab. CapelBuild RobinClevett Stud =================================================== Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



Robin's Ashtead Extension Project Tour

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Another tour from one of Robin's projects. This time it's a single storey extension at a house in Ashtead Surrey. =================================================== Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



How to Solder Copper Pipes & Avoid Leaking Water

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Roger's guide on basic soldering for copper pipework. The first thing is cleaning the pipe. If you got a bit of tarnished pipe like some of this which I have just taken out of shed, it really is no good, even with self-cleaning fluxes. That won’t polish up to be a perfect job. So, we get something like a little bit of emery, a little bit of abrasive. You can even use those Scotch Brite pads from the kitchen, anything like that, and just take the rubbish off the pipe, and make sure that it’s nice and shiny. The same goes for the inside of the fittings. You can see this is an old fitting here. It’s been lying around a while. Self-cleaning flux won’t clean that up. What you need to do is you need to get something like a wire brush or something like a bit of emery, and get it inside of that fitting and just polish up. It really is important that you make it clean. Now, at some point you’re going to want to cut some pipe. Now you can do this with a junior hacksaw, but it doesn't give you a very square edge. The best way to cut copper is with a pipe slicer. This one is sold by Monument Tools. It’s very easy to put on the pipe and just spin it round and cut it, and what it gives you is a nice, clean, square-edge pipe. Now, you can get these in different sizes. This one is 15 millimetres or the old half-inch if you like, and you can also get them in larger sizes or you can get one pipe slice, or one pipe cutter rather which will do all sizes, but you have to fiddle about and adjust it. These are my favourites. Now, before I go any further, I've spoken about cutting pipe with pipe slices and the like, but what they do is they slightly bevel over the end of the pipe. Now, in a purer school of plumbing, what people say is you've got to get rid of that slight burr on the inside of the pipe because it creates turbulence, resistance, and they’d reckon it can cause leaks. How to do basic soldering. =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Join our mailing list - Visit our website - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page - See our Pins -



The Water Level - Best £8 You Ever Spent?

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So we've covered spirit levels, laser levels and now we look at the oldest of all level measurement technologies, the water level. How accurate is a water level? Watch Roger and find out. £8 water level on eBay: Faithfull Water Level Handyman 10M (33ft): -Handyman Water will always find its own level, making these very accurate instruments which are used widely throughout the construction and building industries. Easy to set up and simple to use, they are designed for single-handed use when simultaneously measuring equal heights at two distant points. A water level is an ideal tool for accurate unsighted room to room measurement or distant levelling when you can't use a spirit level. Other applications include working on wall tiling, guttering, landscaping, patios, driveways, fencing and drainage projects. £500 IMEX LX3DG Line Laser Level: WaterLevel LaserLevel SpiritLevel =================================================== Skill Builder Link Tree: Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



Don't Make This Mistake With YOUR Ladder

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Episode 53 ~ Ladder Safety Roger talks about ladder safety after a recent tragedy on a site he was working at. In this episode we see Roger using the Youngman Fibreglass Stepladder and the versatile Hunter Ladder from Ladder Safety Devices, we also see his neat ladder seat which sadly isn't available anymore, so you'll have to borrow Roger's. A few weeks ago I was working on a site where somebody died by falling off a ladder. I had gone to collect some thermal boards and he told me he would give me a hand to unload. When I got back he was in intensive care and shortly after that he was dead, the victim of a brain haemorrhage. The fall was from just over 2 metres. The ladder was set against a plastic gutter on a single story building. Nobody should ever put a ladder against a plastic gutter but on a low rise building, many do it because the perceived risk is low. I could easily get sidetracked here talking about the nature of risk but the bottom line is that we are often in the most danger when we think we are safe. If there is a risk of falling don't just leave it to chance do something to mitigate the risk. It is a common misconception that you are not allowed to work from ladders. It is certainly true that you should only do limited short duration jobs from a ladder and you should have three points of contact with the ladder so that probably means one-handed jobs. It follows that there is not much point hanging onto a ladder if it is able to move. Stopping a ladder moving can be done in many different ways. You can get a bloke on minimum wage to stand on the bottom rung. Personally, I have never had much faith in ladder footers, they tend to get bored and start texting or looking at passers-by. I can well remember having a casual labourer who was given to smoking a joint while making phone calls when he should have been looking after the bottom of my ladder. If the choice is between him and a bag of sand, give me a bag of sand any day. Better still give me a ladder stabiliser. Avoid ladder accidents with our ladder safety video, we don't want to read the headline 'worker dies in ladder fall'. Find out more about the Youngman Fibreglass Stepladder at Youngman Ladders: . Find out more about the Ladder Safety Devices Hunter Ladder at . safety healthandsafety training =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Join our mailing list - Visit our website - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page - See our Pins -



Don't Buy AdBlue Until You've Watched This

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It's time for Roger to top up his AdBlue on the Vivaro, but where should he be buying his stock from? What is AdBlue and how does it work? find out at Carbuyer AdBlue is becoming increasingly common on diesel cars and is a fluid made up of a mix of urea and deionized water which is squirted into the exhaust system, helping to reduce nitrous oxide emissions produced by diesel engines. With car manufacturers having to adhere to ever more stringent emissions targets, AdBlue is vital to make sure diesel cars pass tests and produce less harmful pollution. AdBlue VanMan Motoring =================================================== Skill Builder Link Tree: Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency. Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



How to Drill Through Tiles Without Cracking Them

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Tacklife AHS02C Diamond Coated Core Hole Drill Bit Set - We shot this for our Horror Shower video last year and thought it needed to stand alone. When you have completed your tiling and you're happy with the end result you might be dreading the prospect of ruining that good work when you have to drill the tiles for your bathroom accessories, cabinet, shelves and other fittings. This short video will help you avoid cracking the tiles and it won't cost a fortune or take very long. DIY Tiling TopTips =================================================== Skill Builder Link Tree: Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



Radiator Not Getting Hot? - Plumbing DIY

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Do you have a cold radiator that needs fixing? Would you like to try fixing it yourself? Then look no further. Roger troubleshoots that problem radiator. How to fix that one cold radiator - Plumbing Tips If you have a radiator that isn't getting hot there are a few things potentially happening. Your central heating might be on and your other radiators are warm but you have one cold radiator. If you feel the radiator and you find that there are cold spots but that it's getting warm at the top then the problem is sludge which is basically the system corroding away which is building up a layer of sludge which is oxide in the bottom of the radiator which means the water isn't able to find its way through. If the problem isn't too severe you can inject a little bit of sludge remover or system cleanser into the radiator and let that run around the system for a few weeks and then drain the system. If you can't do that, the next step is to take the radio down and take it outside to be flushed through with a hose. If that isn't effective the next option is a power flush. Another common problem is air collecting along the top of the radiator which means that the bottom is hot and the top is cold. In that situation you need a radiator key, my preference is a brass one and then you need to find the bleed point on the end of the radiator and turn it using the key. You only need to turn it a tiny amount until you hear it hissing and see some water come out which means that the air has gone and the water is in the top. If you find you have to do this regularly it means that you have air coming into the system in which case you need to have the system looked at. If you are having to bleed them every few months it means you might have corrosion which might lead to leaks in your radiators and even your boiler. Another common problem is with the pipe leading into the radiator getting hot but no further. Very often radiators have thermostatic radiator valves and sometimes they jam. Once you take the actuator top off you will see a pin at the top of the valve which you can move it up and down and it should start to function. Balancing radiators is another common issue and balancing your central heating system will be covered in another video. Plumbing Heating Radiator =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Get in touch and send us your pictures and videos - Join our mailing list - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page -



Ugly Monocouche Render Stains - Roger's Rant

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Time for another one of Roger's Rants. He has seen too many stained Monocouche renders and wants to share his thoughts. Monocouche RogerRant =================================================== Skill Builder Link Tree: Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



How to Install Interior Doors - Robin's Step by Step

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The final part of our internal door installation series, hanging an interior door. Robin Clevett hangs the door in his frame and shows you loads of his carpentry tricks and tips. This video shows you how to install an interior door that is not prehung and quite a tricky DIY door install. How to hang a door like a pro! If you missed the first two parts you can see them here: Part 1 - How to Fit Door Frame Lining - Fitting Tricks - Part 2 - Fitting Door Trims, Architraves & Skirting Boards - Door, handle and accessories from XL Joinery - woodworking handmade carpentry Music used in this episode: Josh Leake - Chapters | Don't Stand a Chance | OFRIN - =================================================== Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



Building an Extension #7 - Roof Build-up & 3 4 5 Rule

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In Part 7 Roger talks about the preparation for the roof. Amongst other things, the 3 4 5 rule explained. The Extension project is now up to plate level so it’s time for Pythagoras’ theorem. “Plate level is the timber plate which is going to hold the roof structure including the roof joists, hips and roof rafters. “When you put this on you need to spend a lot of time getting this right because carpenters curse bricklayers like mad if they’ve bedded the plate on and it’s wrong and some carpenters even prefer to put the plate on themselves. “Luckily Mark, our bricklayer, is very diligent and he bedded it the old fashioned way. It comes off the existing plate of the house and we used a laser level to ensure that it is level all the way round and we’ve also checked that the whole thing is square which is also really important.” 3-4-5- method “You can do that using a folding square but an alternative way to check the plates are square which can be useful on larger roofs is to use the 3-4-5 method. “Take any 3 measurement such as 30 inches from the corner down one side, then measure 40 inches down the other sid =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Get in touch and send us your pictures and videos - Join our mailing list - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page -



Building an Extension #2 - Drains & Sewerage Pipes

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Roger Bisby shares the trials and tribulations of moving drains in the second episode of The Extension project. Builders will often tell you that the hardest part of a job is the bit in the ground. In my case this was true. The ground was made up with rubble, there were two drain runs and manholes to be removed and relocated. Thames Water won't let you use indoor manholes because they need to get in there and pressure jet. The drains also have to be clay. I had to dig them out and build new manholes in a day so I could keep all the houses on the services. Relocating the drains was the hardest day's work I have done for ages and there was no time for filming so excuse the brevity of this video. I kick myself now but at the time I didn't need any more complications. I'm happy now we are out of the ground. I spent far too long thinking about how I was going to do that part of the job, even on holiday I was thinking about it and maybe that was a good thing because my plan went like clockwork. For more information on relocating drains and relocating manholes in the UK, see: The following advice is particularly relevant: Why do I need to think about underground drainage? You may have to change your plans to suit the depth and location of the underground drain or sewer that you intend to connect to. If you intend to build over or close to a public sewer, you will require written agreement from your sewerage undertaker, so you should consult the company at the earliest planning stage of your building work. Building over an existing drain or sewer can damage pipes, so that they leak or block, potentially leading to odour nuisance, health problems and environmental damage. It also makes it more difficult, time consuming and expensive to clear blockages and repair or replace faulty drains. So if there is an existing drain below, or close to, your proposed extension, it may need to be moved or protected, which is likely to increase the cost of your project. The route of the drain should avoid obstructions (eg. ponds or outbuildings) and keep away from foundations, so may need to be longer and have additional access chambers, rather than running in a straight line. Approved Document H gives guidance on additional measures needed where drains have to run close to foundations. In order to carry the flow and to avoid blockages, the drain or sewer that you intend to connect to generally needs to be at least 0.8m lower than the ground floor level. If it is less than this, you should seek advice from a builder, architect or drainage engineer. Don't forget to like Skill Builder - the Extension if you want to see more videos like this. =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Join our mailing list - Visit our website - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page - See our Pins -



How Does Brick Brace Help Remove Load-bearing Walls?

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Episode 43: Supporting Brickwork Safely with the Brick Brace System. () For more tips and product insight see It seems like years ago that I was first introduced to the Brick Brace. It is no illusion, time flies and in all that time I have been waiting for the right job to try it out on. That’s strange because knock throughs are bread and butter work for small builders. So why has it taken me so long to get out on site with this little device? Well to be quite honest with you I was clinging on to the security of the Acrow prop and Strong Boy. For someone who has been testing new products for over 30 years this is a surprising confession. I was shown structural calculations and test certificates for the Brick Brace but it was the scaffold tube ingredient that worried me. The company told me that the tube is used to connect all the tools together. We are talking about a triangle of brickwork and the fact that the tube is clamped securely at each end means that in order for it to bend it needs to find the extra length to do so and the couplers bolted into the brickwork stops that. This was the bit I hadn't really appreciated and is why scaffolding works, the tube has hardly any strength but it works like the wire in a PSC beam. So having accepted that it is possible to calculate the exact load on that triangle and prove that the tube will cope easily I felt a lot happier. If there is a point load, such as floor joists then you must prop the floor in the usual way so you are then certain that it is only the self weight of the brick triangle being supported. That, in essence, is how permanent lintel loads have been calculated since the Ancient Greeks built the Parthenon (still standing) in Athens. The second factor working in its favour is the compression that the brick courses are under. Anyone who has knocked out a prop by accident and seen that the wall doesn't immediately collapse knows that the compressive strength is a significant factor. The Brick Brace system was originally developed for sand and lime to increase that linear compression but is also used in sand and cement mortar. In the case of sand and lime you need a safety tool every other joint but in sand and cement it is every third joint. Taking out the perps with an SDS bit proved a lot easier than I anticipated, so there is no need to kit yourself out with specialist tools. Once that bit is done you anchor bolt the scaffold clips (all supplied) to the course above and the safety hooks are then hooked onto the scaffold pole. That is the work done. You are now at the same point you would be if slotting in Strongboys. Now I wouldn't say that you should remove the brickwork and leave for any longer than necessary but that is the same with all temporary support. If you are needling through with timber or using Strong Boys you will also be keen to get the lintel or steel beam in place and mortared up. Trying the Brick Brace you may feel that you would still want to use a prop or two but if the Brick Brace is nothing more than the braces to your belt then that is not a bad thing. A surprising number of these jobs go wrong for one reason or another. I am sure you can write a list of reasons as easily as I can and I will confess that when struggling to fit a steel with props in the way we have quickly angled other props above and removed the Strong boy for a few minutes, or hours. It is unlikely that such actions end in catastrophe but it does happen. More common is that you end up with cracks which are often difficult to fill and never the same as before so why take the risk if there is a solution? Having used the Brick Brace System I feel I have finally knocked that little nagging doubt out of my system and I wouldn't hesitate to use them again. You might not need them for every knock through but they take up no space in your van and they certainly ease a difficult job. =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Join our mailing list - Visit our website - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page - See our Pins -



Many Pros Didn't Know Tip 3 - Tape Measure Hacks

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Robin shares his 5 favourite tape measure DIY hacks and tricks of the trade. Tips include: 1. The 3-4-5 rule to help you get perfectly square edges. 2. Perfect guidelines without using a ruler or spirit level. 3. Quick & easy equal division and marking an arc. 4. Measuring distances longer than your tape. 5. Using the end slot of your tape measure. ToolHacks RobinClevett LifeHacks =================================================== Skill Builder Link Tree: Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



Notching & Drilling Joists - Keeping it Legal

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Фрагмент с средины видео - Notching & Drilling Joists - Keeping it Legal

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Roger goes over the best practices and rules for notching and drilling holes in joists while filming our bathroom series. It's important to calculate the size and location of notches and holes in joists correctly for safety. Ensure your holes and notches are in the right position and do not affect the structural integrity of the building. This applies to notching a joist for pipes and cables if you need to run them under your floor. Follow the building regulations closely or use a joist notch reinforcement and hole calculator if you're unsure. Plan your legal notches. Learn how to maintain floor strength when you have to cut or drill your joists for ducts, pipes, cables or other modifications. Following this video guide will keep your floors strong and safe. joists woodworking notching =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Get in touch and send us your pictures and videos - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page -



Building an Extension #4 - Brickwork & Insulation

Фрагмент с начала видео - Building an Extension #4 - Brickwork & Insulation

Фрагмент с средины видео - Building an Extension #4 - Brickwork & Insulation

Фрагмент с конца видео - Building an Extension #4 - Brickwork & Insulation

In Part 4 of our series following the building of an extension we cover the brickwork and insulation stage and some points to consider when insulating your home. In this episode Roger Bisby explains the benefits of using Rigid thermal PIR insulation, an alternative to mineral wool fibre insulation. Installing insulation such as PIR board insulation can help make a home warmer and reduce energy costs. Thanks to its high rate of return per square metre Rigid thermal PIR home insulation can help increase energy efficiency and achieve part-L compliance. EcoTherm insulation has a lambda value of just 0.021 – 0.027 W/mk. For example: By using a 100 mm thick Eco-Versal board you can achieve a thermal resistance (R value) of 4.55m2K/W. To achieve the same value with traditional insulation you may require up to 200mm thickness of insulation. In the case of this project using Ecotherm Insulation Boards has helped the homeowner to significantly exceed the insulation requirements which means they can increase the extensions's glazed area with the addition of large windows and bi-fold doors. This made this sustainable insulation material the best insulation for their requirements. As ever this episode of the extension series covers technology, tips and techniques designed to help anyone undertaking building work. Episode 4 features: Building a brick pier to support the steel beams Putting in wall ties Cutting a thermalite block with an Irwin block saw How to cut a block with a hammer and bolster Damp proof course going in on the outer skin When and why you need an expansion joint in your brickwork to prevent cracking The insulation installation Don't forget to subscribe to our channel to keep up to date with all of the latest episodes. =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Get in touch by email - contact@skill-builder.uk Join our mailing list - Visit our website - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page - See our Pins -



How to Fit Door Frame Lining - Fitting Tricks

Фрагмент с начала видео - How to Fit Door Frame Lining - Fitting Tricks

Фрагмент с средины видео - How to Fit Door Frame Lining - Fitting Tricks

Фрагмент с конца видео - How to Fit Door Frame Lining - Fitting Tricks

Robin's back with another carpentry tutorial. This is the first part of a series of three and it's how to fit interior doors, part one is the door lining. Doors Woodworking Carpentry =================================================== Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



How to Remove Ugly Black Mould from Shower Silicone

Фрагмент с начала видео - How to Remove Ugly Black Mould from Shower Silicone

Фрагмент с средины видео - How to Remove Ugly Black Mould from Shower Silicone

Фрагмент с конца видео - How to Remove Ugly Black Mould from Shower Silicone

This is a brilliant little lifehack that will kill ugly black mold. We've been asked how to remove black mould from the silicone around shower trays many times and the solution is almost too easy to believe because it doesn't involve any scrubbing or elbow grease. You will need some bleach, toilet or kitchen roll, gloves if you like having healthy skin unlike Roger and a few hours where you don't need to use the shower. There's a great article over at WikiHow which goes into great detail on How to Remove Bathroom Mold. Roger's DIY FAQ on mold problems • How to remove mold from shower caulking? • How to get rid of mould in shower silicone? • How do you get rid of black mold in the shower? • How do I clean black mold in shower silicone? mold DIY lifehacks =================================================== Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



Hitachi vs DeWalt DCN692 18v Cordless Framing Nailer

Фрагмент с начала видео - Hitachi vs DeWalt DCN692 18v Cordless Framing Nailer

Фрагмент с средины видео - Hitachi vs DeWalt DCN692 18v Cordless Framing Nailer

Фрагмент с конца видео - Hitachi vs DeWalt DCN692 18v Cordless Framing Nailer

Framing Nailer Head-to-head review - Hitachi NR1890 vs DeWalt DCN692 A battle of two popular 18V cordless framing nailers. Roger visits his friend Malcolm to put the new Hitachi NR1890DBCL up against the established DeWalt DCN690 nail gun to see how much of a difference Hitachi's new air spring drive technology makes to performance. DeWalt Features ============= • Dry fire lockout ensures that the tool is protected from firing without nails in the magazine • Cordless design so no hanging leads to deal with • The user can engage contact trip lock-off and prevent accidental discharge of the fastener • Two speeds or power levels which optimise the nailer for firing all lengths of nails. • The sequential operating mode allows for precision placement and the bump operating mode provides the user with production speed • Mechanical rather than gas operation offers consistent performance at a temperature between -20 and 50 degrees Celsius and minimal cleaning/service requirements • Class-leading vibration and sound figures offer fantastic user protection • Reversible belt/rafter hook provides increased portability and versatility on the job-site • Depths can be easily adjusted using the thumb wheel depth adjuster Increased visibility and durability along with protection for work-surface from the non-mar contact-trip • Ergonomic tool design allows the nailer to fit easily between a 400mm centre stud • Gas free operation offers a significant saving in running costs • Tool-free stall/jam clearance minimises user downtime Hitachi Features ============= • Unique Air Drive System - Compressed air is used to drive each nail increasing power, performance and driving speed • Lower running costs: - No Gas cells required. Purchasing nails without gas cells are approximately 50% cheaper - No regular cleaning of a combustion chamber is required significantly reducing the cost of servicing and downtime - Fewer parts to manage results in easier maintenance • Dual function trigger for Sequential and contact mode with operation control panel • Dry-fire lockout mechanism prevents the nailer from being activated when there is a very low level of nails in the magazine • Integrated Hook for added convenience • Safer and more comfortable to use on any jobsite than Gas combustion models • Brushless motors are 30% more efficient than conventional models as no energy is wasted through brush friction thus extending battery run time • Rapid charger with the cooling system and USB port • Extreme high capacity 5.0Ah Li-ion batteries with multiple protection circuit provide long run time and protects the battery & tool from overload, overheat, over discharge & overcharge. powertools hitachi dewalt =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Get in touch and send us your pictures and videos - Join our mailing list - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page -



Using the Evolution RAGE3-S Compound Mitre Saw

Фрагмент с начала видео - Using the Evolution RAGE3-S Compound Mitre Saw

Фрагмент с средины видео - Using the Evolution RAGE3-S Compound Mitre Saw

Фрагмент с конца видео - Using the Evolution RAGE3-S Compound Mitre Saw

Episode 71 ~ Evolution RAGE3-S 255mm sliding compound mitre saw review. For more reviews and product insights, see Roger Bisby reviews the Evolution RAGE3 FP2552 2440V compound mitre saw which comes complete with a TCT blade that can easily cut through wood, aluminium and steel, even if nails are still embedded in the material. This is a cheap saw. The multipurpose blade cuts cleanly and leaves no burrs on steel, so you can work with it instantly. This tool is easy to assemble and use, as the laser cutting guide helps you get the highest possible accuracy in your work. The supplied clamp also keeps your workpiece in place and your hands free. • 2000W • Max. Cross Cut 300 x 75mm • 24-Tooth TCT Blade Included • Trench Cutting Facility • AC laser Cutting Guide • Die-Cast Aluminium Base • Workpiece Clamp • Spindle Lock • Dust Extraction Facility • Trigger Switch Find out more at =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Join our mailing list - Visit our website - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page - See our Pins -



Impact Driver v Drill - What's the Difference?

Фрагмент с начала видео - Impact Driver v Drill - What's the Difference?

Фрагмент с средины видео - Impact Driver v Drill - What's the Difference?

Фрагмент с конца видео - Impact Driver v Drill - What's the Difference?

What's the difference between a drill and an impact driver? Roger explains the difference and what you need to know. ImpactDriver Powertools =================================================== Skill Builder Link Tree: Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



Building an Extension #9 - Ardex Rapid Dry Screed

Фрагмент с начала видео - Building an Extension #9 - Ardex Rapid Dry Screed

Фрагмент с средины видео - Building an Extension #9 - Ardex Rapid Dry Screed

Фрагмент с конца видео - Building an Extension #9 - Ardex Rapid Dry Screed

In this latest episode of the extension series - episode - 8 Roger tries out a rapid drying screeding product from Ardex. ARDEX A 29 cement for screeds has been developed to perform in real UK site conditions. It is said to offer unique application and performance benefits to professional screeding contractors; ARDEX A 29 combines excellent workability, speed and performance. 90 minute working time Walkable after 8 hours Passes the BRE Screed (ISCR) Test in as little as 24 hours Install ceramic tiles in as little as 24 hours and natural stone after 7 days Install resilient and wood floor finishes in as little as 7 days Apply as a bonded, unbonded or floating screed Can be used with underfloor heating systems Can be pumped for fast application For internal and external use, including wet areas Unit Size Available: 20kg Coverage: 0.27kg ARDEX A 29 cement per m² for each millimetre of screed thickness using a 1:7 mix Find out more at: ardex screed howto =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Get in touch and send us your pictures and videos - Join our mailing list - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page -



Is Your Spirit Level Really Level?

Фрагмент с начала видео - Is Your Spirit Level Really Level?

Фрагмент с средины видео - Is Your Spirit Level Really Level?

Фрагмент с конца видео - Is Your Spirit Level Really Level?

I bet you never thought your spirit level might not be level. Roger explains what you need to check and how an uneven level might waste huge amounts of time and money. Featuring Milwaukee Red Stick. SpiritLevels Maintenance RedStick =================================================== Skill Builder Link Tree: Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



Easy DIY Solution to Treat Rising Damp in Walls

Фрагмент с начала видео - Easy DIY Solution to Treat Rising Damp in Walls

Фрагмент с средины видео - Easy DIY Solution to Treat Rising Damp in Walls

Фрагмент с конца видео - Easy DIY Solution to Treat Rising Damp in Walls

Roger uses one of his favourite products for treating rising damp internally in brick walls. We show you how to treat damp walls in an old house internally with Dryrod from Safeguard Europe, their latest development in Rising Damp treatment. Dryrod provides a highly effective damp-proof course even in saturated internal walls. This results in salts in the wall being less mobile and therefore less able to migrate further into the plaster. Further reading: Damp Dryrod DIY =================================================== Skill Builder Link Tree: Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



How to Cut & Fit Coving with Supercove

Фрагмент с начала видео - How to Cut & Fit Coving with Supercove

Фрагмент с средины видео - How to Cut & Fit Coving with Supercove

Фрагмент с конца видео - How to Cut & Fit Coving with Supercove

Sponsored by SuperCove, Roger shows you just how easy it is to cut and fit coving using Super Cove. SuperCove lightweight coving is available from many good builders merchants and DIY stores throughout the UK and Ireland, in various length options up to 4 metres. Unlike plaster coving, with super-light SuperCove you can fix coving quickly and easily – adding value to your home with the minimum of effort. Cutting coving has never been easier. SuperCove is faced with a high-quality paper-board – ideal for painting, with no need to prime. The polyurethane core, unlike polystyrene, will not melt or drip if exposed to heat or flame. Find out more at: Despite the fact that there are a lot of different styles of coving out there, the plain concave coving that has been the standard product for many modern homes over the last 40 years is still in big demand. The big difference now is that there is a high-quality alternative to the heavy gypsum based product that we all used to fit a few years ago. Supercove has a polyurethane core that makes it exceptionally rigid and a white card/paper face that gives it crisp edges with a finish that often needs no further decorating. The lightweight means that you can stick it up with a minimal amount of adhesive and it genuinely does not need propping or pinning. There are still many die-hard plasterers out there who would rather use a gypsum coving because they can run the corners in with a bit of board filler and close up any mitres which are a bit gappy. I would not dream of taking away their fun but for me, the cutting of accurate mitres is easy enough to achieve with the guides. When it comes to cutting you have a choice of using the blue plastic Supercove mitre guide, your own mitre guide or a mitre box. The manufacturers recommend a sharp craft knife which produces a sharp line that doesn’t need sanding. I tried this but without a longer blade, it is difficult to set the knife against the former. If you have a sharp blade that it long enough, by all means, try this. The mitre box works well provided you remember to set it at the same angle that the coving will be fitted. That is to say that the top and bottom must be equidistant from the corner. For me, the easiest way to cut Supercove is with a fine tooth saw because it allows you to set the blade against the guide to produce the correct angle. If you are new to coving here are a few tips. 1: It pays to mark the top or bottom of the cove so you know which way you are cutting. If you keep the bottom towards you on the bench you will find it easier to orientate and make the correct cut at the corners. Internal corners have the long end at the bottom and external corners (around chimney) have the long end of the cut at the top. The guide allows you to do this easily. 2: You can buy Supercove in 3metre lengths but it is likely that you will need to join two lengths together. Some people do this with a straight 90-degree cut but it is a lot better to cut a 45-degree cut with your mitre guide and joint the two bits together. You can then run a damp sponge lightly across the adhesive/filler. 3: Always mark the wall and ceiling with a pencil so you get the coving evenly set between the wall and ceiling. If the corners of the room or chimney surround are not quite 90 degrees it is best not to try cutting the mitres to suit. Stick to the 45 degrees and gently roll the corners in so the mitre closes up. 4: If you are fitting around a bay with 45-degree angles you need to cut 22 ½ degree mitres. coving HowTo Supercove =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Join our mailing list - Visit our website - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page - See our Pins -



How to Replace a Heating Pump - Plumbing DIY

Фрагмент с начала видео - How to Replace a Heating Pump - Plumbing DIY

Фрагмент с средины видео - How to Replace a Heating Pump - Plumbing DIY

Фрагмент с конца видео - How to Replace a Heating Pump - Plumbing DIY

Spoiler alert - not all jobs go according to plan and this one had Roger on the ropes. Replacing a central heating pump is a simple enough DIY job, but years of plumbing experience come in very handy when the job gets too wet. The old broken pump goes out to be replaced by a brand new Grundfos UPS2 Plumbing DIY HowTo =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Get in touch and send us your pictures and videos - Join our mailing list - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page -



Robin's Rafter Trick  - Carpentry  Hack

Фрагмент с начала видео - Robin's Rafter Trick  - Carpentry  Hack

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Фрагмент с конца видео - Robin's Rafter Trick  - Carpentry  Hack

Robin proudly shows off one of his favourite carpenter hack techniques with his rafter template! This is part of our 'how to create a pitched roof' video which you can see here: We'll have more woodworking tips and hacks from Robin Clevett soon. Carpentry Woodworking LifeHack ================================================ Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency. We aim to be a family friendly channel.



Makita DLS600Z - Is this a toy or a good mitre saw?

Фрагмент с начала видео - Makita DLS600Z - Is this a toy or a good mitre saw?

Фрагмент с средины видео - Makita DLS600Z - Is this a toy or a good mitre saw?

Фрагмент с конца видео - Makita DLS600Z - Is this a toy or a good mitre saw?

Robin takes the new DLS600Z mini mitre table saw from Makita for a test drive and loves it. Just imagine how much he'd love the Festool version! More info from Makita Makita 18v LXT BL 165mm Mitre Saw Bare Unit DLS600Z The Makita model DLS600Z is a 18v LXT BL 165mm Mitre Saw Bare Unit. DLS600 is a lightweight and portable 165mm (6-1/2 ) cordless mitre saw powered by 18V Li-ion battery, and suitable for cutting baseboard, architrave etc. Body only / naked machine, supplied without battery or charger. Features and Benefits: • Electric brake • Soft start • LED job light • Brushless motor • Built in laser guide • Carrying handle for easy transport • Aluminium base for higher durability and accuracy • Mini sub-fence provides wide guide support when performing vertical cut or left bevel cut • Automatic Torque Drive Technology: Automatically changes the cutting speed according to load condition for an optimum operation • Double bevel design: The saw head can tilt left and right 0° to 45° (up to 46° when using release lever) • Battery fuel gauge Technical Specification: • Battery Type - Lithium-ion • Voltage - 18 v • Body only machine • Blade Diameter - 165 mm • Bore Diameter - 20 mm • No Load Speed - 5000 rpm • Max bevel range - 46 - 46 º • Max mitre range - 52 - 52 º • Max Cutting Capacity - 46 x 92 mm • Noise sound pressure - 90 dB(A) • Noise sound power - 97 dB(A) • Noise K factor - 3 dB(A) • Vibration K factor - 1.5 m/sec² • Vibration no load - 2.5 m/sec² • Net weight - 6.6 kg Supplied With: • Dust bag • Vertical vice • Hex wrench x2 • Triangular rule • TCT saw blade Compare prices with PriceSpy - Makita woodworking sawing =================================================== Tell us what you like: Get in touch and send us your pictures and videos - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page -



How to Repair a Motorised Central Heating Valve

Фрагмент с начала видео - How to Repair a Motorised Central Heating Valve

Фрагмент с средины видео - How to Repair a Motorised Central Heating Valve

Фрагмент с конца видео - How to Repair a Motorised Central Heating Valve

In this video, Roger shows you how a motorized valve works and what you need to do to diagnose and repair a motorised valve and avoid buying a costly replacement. DIY plumbing repair of a motorised valve, how it works and avoiding motorised valve replacement. Please let us know if you like our plumbing basics and tricks of the trade. Plumbing DIY HowTo =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Join our mailing list - Visit our website - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page - See our Pins -



Building an Extension #3 - Suspended Beam & Block Floor

Фрагмент с начала видео - Building an Extension #3 - Suspended Beam & Block Floor

Фрагмент с средины видео - Building an Extension #3 - Suspended Beam & Block Floor

Фрагмент с конца видео - Building an Extension #3 - Suspended Beam & Block Floor

In Part 3 of Skill Builder's series following an extension build it's time for the suspended beam and block flooring. Generally speaking, there are two options for constructing ground floors. You can opt for a solid floor which involves laying wet concrete directly onto your ground surface or you can choose a beam and block floor which is also known as a suspended floor which allows you to achieve a low-cost concrete floor. Beam and block flooring can also be used for suspended flooring to subsequent levels and can even be used to support partition walling. The advantage of a beam and block floor is that you don't have to prepare the oversite saving time, materials and money because no hardcore or oversite concreting is required. If you've got an oversite which is a bit rough or spongy and you don't want to compact concrete onto it you can simply put these beams over the top of it and it doesn't matter what the ground does underneath so it's great in clay or in made up ground. It's also a good system to use because it's fairly cheap and as demonstrated it is quick and easy to install. Other advantages of a concrete floor include a high thermal mass which can help reduce a building's energy consumption as well as noise reducing properties and fire resistant properties. This episode includes: - Raking out the oversite ready to lay the weed barrier and vapour barrier which stops the moisture coming up through the ground to the underside of the beams - Inclusion of air blocks underneath the beams - Putting the block into the beam - it's important to clean the snots off the beams, sometimes you might need to use a brick hammer to scrape through - Why you need to run grout over the blocks, which is basically wet sand and cement which will fill in all the little gaps and tightens the floor up Don't forget to like the video if you want to see more like this. Stay up to date with Skill Builder! Join our mailing list - Visit our website - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page - Find us on Instagram @skill_builder See our Pins -



Building an Extension #1 - How to set out

Фрагмент с начала видео - Building an Extension #1 - How to set out

Фрагмент с средины видео - Building an Extension #1 - How to set out

Фрагмент с конца видео - Building an Extension #1 - How to set out

The Extension Project is a brand new series from Skill Builder following the build of a side and rear extension on a semi-detached house. In the first instalment of the series, Roger provides an overview of the project and explains the setting out process. Setting out footings for an extension “It’s very important when you’re building anything that you set things out properly because if you get it wrong at the setting out stage it has implications throughout the job. “In other words, if you start right; you finish right. “It doesn’t matter if you spend a day setting out footings for an extension, this is an investment. “This setting out stage is not the line of the brickwork – that can be done at a later stage using a laser level, this stage of setting out footings for an extension focuses on working out the line of the brickwork – in other words where it is going to be and how far away from the existing building so we can get it in an absolutely straight line. “Start by taking a couple of battons and work out where the extreme edge of the brickwork might be but use something more substantial for the cross piece to avoid rocking because if it rocks even slightly you could throw your brick line off.” “Take the drawing and work out how far away from the building the line needs to be and stick a skrew into the form at this spot. We know that the brickwork is 300mm overall: 100mm for brickwork, 100mm for cavity and another 100mm for brickwork so we can also mark the inside edge of the wall on our cross piece. “Repeat this step at the other end. Run a line in between the skrews at the outer edge of each forms. Then run the inside line; the lines should then be parallel and the same distance off the building – if they are not it is possible the building is not straight in itself. “The next thing we do is mix up some mortar, slap it onto the foundation and take our spirit level, line it up and mark it off at the bottom. “We can then begin to put the corners up on either end of the building and then get the laser level and level through and then run the brickwork between the two corners laying to the line.” =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Join our mailing list - Visit our website - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page - See our Pins -



Roger's Rant - Building Control out of Control

Фрагмент с начала видео - Roger's Rant - Building Control out of Control

Фрагмент с средины видео - Roger's Rant - Building Control out of Control

Фрагмент с конца видео - Roger's Rant - Building Control out of Control

Roger looks at some of the problems with building inspection in the UK where private building inspectors are now the preferred option for big house builders. The recent issues with lack of fire protection in timber frame houses suggests it is not working and trust has broken down. Is it time to take a different approach and record every stage of the build with photographs that can be stored on a database for prospective purchasers to access. Roger thinks it makes sense but what do you think? BuildingControl RogersRant =================================================== Skill Builder Link Tree: Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



Is Your Laser Level Really Level? How to Check

Фрагмент с начала видео - Is Your Laser Level Really Level? How to Check

Фрагмент с средины видео - Is Your Laser Level Really Level? How to Check

Фрагмент с конца видео - Is Your Laser Level Really Level? How to Check

Roger takes another look at levels, this time it's the lasers. Roger gets his Bosch GCL 2-15 G green laser level out to make sure it's still in good working order. Is Your Laser Level Really Level? How to Check LaserLevel =================================================== Skill Builder Link Tree: Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



Best heavy duty fixing in  brick and concrete

Фрагмент с начала видео - Best heavy duty fixing in  brick and concrete

Фрагмент с средины видео - Best heavy duty fixing in  brick and concrete

Фрагмент с конца видео - Best heavy duty fixing in  brick and concrete

Atlas Bolts are high-quality boron steel fixings that cut their own thread in the host material. You don't need wall plugs or resin to hold them in. They can be used in timber, brick, concrete, slate, stone and even marble. In this video, Roger Bisby takes a look at the new Atlas Bolt from Samac, designed to be a one piece, fast, efficient and cost effective solution for any concrete fixing job. Atlas Bolts are an alternative to traditional concrete fixings with high tensile self-tapping technology, offering quick and easy “drill and screw” installation in a variety of construction substrates, including concrete, block, brick, timber, marble, and stone. The Atlas Bolt is suitable for a variety of construction fixings tasks across any number of trades from plumbers and electricians to fencing and roofing contractors. The Samac Atlas Bolt is said to provide market leading load performance with low expansion forces, making it an efficient and effective alternative to chemical anchors. This is particularly pertinent for temporary structures as the Atlas Bolt is completely removable. Unlike mechanical expansion anchors, the Atlas Bolt keys into the base material for the entire depth and diameter of the hole, not just at the base, thanks to ten sharp thread-forming teeth that ensure the most secure connection in the substrate. This reduces high energy forces within the concrete allowing close anchor spacing and near-to edge anchor locations. The Samac Atlas Bolt is manufactured from carbon, hardened steel with Boron. =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Join our mailing list - Visit our website - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page - See our Pins -



Cladding Vlog Update with Robin - Capel #5

Фрагмент с начала видео - Cladding Vlog Update with Robin - Capel #5

Фрагмент с средины видео - Cladding Vlog Update with Robin - Capel #5

Фрагмент с конца видео - Cladding Vlog Update with Robin - Capel #5

Robin gives us a solo update vlog while Roger is away on holiday and we take a look at his approach to cladding. Robin explains the importance of ventilation and airspace when assembling your tongue and groove cladding. CapelBuild RobinClevett =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Get in touch and send us your pictures and videos - Join our mailing list - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page -



How to Fit a Bath and Prevent it Wobbling

Фрагмент с начала видео - How to Fit a Bath and Prevent it Wobbling

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Фрагмент с конца видео - How to Fit a Bath and Prevent it Wobbling

Sponsored by Abacus, Roger shows you how to install an Abacus Bath with his plumber's tricks and tips. The bath shown is an Abacus Bathrooms single ended 1700x750mm Series 2 Bath with Armour Plus super strength acrylic. Manufactured using the same high-grade materials, the Series 2 baths are a more angular take on their best-selling Series 1 range. Armour baths have more strength and are heavier than standard acrylic baths. The extra layers created during the Armour process create a significantly reinforced product. The finished Armour bath offers a higher degree of comfort and luxury, backed with the Abacus unbeatable 30 year guarantee. Find out more at: Bathroom Plumbing HowTo =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Join our mailing list - Visit our website - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page - See our Pins -



Plasterboarding a Ceiling on Your Own less grunt

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Roger shows you how he manages to carry out plaster boarding when he's working alone. Be careful when following this technique! The pipe could work better with a couple of drilled holes to take long nails or screws. It is a work in progress, not perfect but food for thought. Hopefully, others will come up with refinements. =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Join our mailing list - Visit our website - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page - See our Pins -



How To Avoid Burning The Wall When Soldering

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Roger has been using his Omat (invented by Dean Thomas) from Monument Tools for ages and loves it. Find out why it's a must-have in his plumber's tool bag. ========================================== More info from Monument Tools Monument MON2355 OMAT Plumber’s Soldering Mat for 15-22mm Pipe OMAT is manufactured from heavy-duty density glass weave fibre. The cutout shape enables the mat to be wrapped around pipework reducing the risk of damage to the surroundings when using a gas torch. Make sure you use the correct sized mat for the work you are doing. Place the mat behind the work, but not too close so that the flame is always on the same point of the mat. The OMAT is designed for use with butane and propane gas and will provide protection in most soldering work. Remember that the flame temperature of your torch is hot enough to melt steel so exercise caution. Do not lay the mat on a floor and solder it because damage to the floor and floor covering will occur. If the mat should start to glow at the point of the flame, move the mat around. Use unheated parts of the mat to continue work. The unique OMAT die cut shape with overlap gives a tight fit around the pipe. OMAT is subject to wear and tear during normal use. A damaged or burnt mat should not be used as it will not offer the stated protection. Check your mat each time before use. European standard BS476. Patent number GB2406515. Remove all packaging prior to use. The range of Omats includes the 6in x 6in product code 2363L and the 10in x10in product code 2361F. Also available is the original 12in x 12in original Omat. These three versions are designed from a material for use with propane and butane gas. Made in Britain. plumbing soldering Monument =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Get in touch and send us your pictures and videos - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page -



Building the Foundations for a House - Capel #1

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This is the start of our second building project on Skill Builder. The Capel Build sees Roger's friend Robin renovate and extend an unusual property designed by Michael Newberry in Surrey. In this episode Robin talks about the challenges of getting the foundations right. CapelBuild RobinClevett =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Join our mailing list - Visit our website - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page - See our Pins -



Corefix - Dot & Dab Wall Fixing Solved

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Roger looks at a fast & strong dot n' dab drywall fixing from Corefix. Dot & Dab Wall Fixing Solution • Suitable for most modern homes with plasterboard/dot & dab walls • Trusted and independently tested incredibly strong fixing, 90kg safe working load • Fast installation, no specialist tools required, drill, 10mm bit, hammer & screwdriver • For all wall types, brick, block and lightweight concrete Speed A bracket can be fixed using Corefix within 50 seconds, watch the video directly above if you don’t believe us, it really is that quick! Strength-Tested Product performance has been independently tested and verified. In-house tested to over 250kg on four fixings with a safe working load of 90kg. Test results can be viewed on our technical datasheet. Where To Use Corefix The product was developed to safely secure wall hung kitchen cabinets but it will support any heavy load on a dot & dab wall, to include but not exclusively, wall hung cabinets, large screen TVs, boilers, radiators, sanitaryware & heavy duty shelving. Required for most modern houses Obtaining a secure fixing to a drylined (dot and dab) wall is notoriously difficult. Corefix solves this problem by securing the load to the solid wall behind, and not to the plasterboard. Huge Load Rating Tested to over 250kg (without failure) with a safe working load of 90kg based on 4 x Corefix fixings. Corefix has been independently tested for tensile and sheer strength with its performance verified. Robust and Dependable With Corefix the load is supported by the solid wall behind, not the plasterboard. Corefix is well-engineered using quality materials and heavy-duty components, with the metal parts being plated for corrosion resistance. Superfast installation Very quick and easy installation with no specialist tools required. All that is needed is a 10mm drill, hammer and screwdriver. The straight-forward fixing system comprised of a patented plug, metal insert and single screw. Corefix is Ideal for Wall mounted large screen TV's, wall hung cabinets, shelves, boilers, radiators, sanitaryware and much more! Corefix has been designed for drylined walls but is also suitable for other wall construction types. No more bowed Plasterboard Corefix bridges the void between plasterboard and the solid wall behind with STEEL thereby preventing the plasterboard from crushing into the void (as is common with many other types of fixing). =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Get in touch and send us your pictures and videos - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page -



Bathroom Renovation #1 - Demolition & Rip Out

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Sponsored by Abacus bathrooms, this is the first episode of our new bathroom renovation series. Over the course of this video series, we will show you how to renovate a bathroom from start to finish. This is the rip out and demolition of the old bathroom before the new wet room can be built. Tools and materials used in this video series: Abacus Elements Ultimate Construction Board - Abacus Emotion Round Shower Head - Abacus Fix-MD Sealing & Mounting Adhesive - Abacus Infinity Single Fall Tray - Abacus No More Leaks Bath & Shower Sealing Kits - Abacus Pro-Seal Tape Sealing Compound - Abacus Temptation Chrome Wall Arm - Abacus Temptation Thermostatic Shower Mixer - Abacus X Series Designer Glass to Wall Support Arm - Abacus X Series Glass Panel - Fein MultiMaster - Hansgrohe iBox Universal - Hultafors HBX Saw Blade - Imex LX3DG Line Laser Level - Makita DJR188 18v Recip Saw - Milwaukee M12 BDDX Sub Compact Drill - Milwaukee RED STICK - Monument 2600K Copper Pipe Bender 15mm & 22mm - Tacklife AHS02C Diamond Coated Core Hole Drill Bit Set - AbacusBathrooms bathroom renovation =================================================== Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



2018 Bloopers Reel - Best Skill Builder Outtakes

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Фрагмент с конца видео - 2018 Bloopers Reel - Best Skill Builder Outtakes

The Skill Builder team would like to thank all of our viewers for a great 2018 and wish you all a wonderful Christmas and a happy new year. bloopers outtakes fun =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Get in touch and send us your pictures and videos - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page -



Top 10 Tips for Installing a Lintel with Keystone

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Sponsored by Keystone, here are Roger's top 10 tips for anyone installing a lintel. Find out more about Keystone Lintels at: TOP 10 TIPS FOR LINTEL INSTALLATION • Install with 150mm minimum end bearing • Ensure lintel is level along its length • Raise inner and outer leaves simultaneously • Allow mortar to cure before applying floor or roof loads • Use DPC or cavity tray • Avoid shock loading or dragging • Avoid point loads on flanges • Flanges must project beyond window or door frame • Use soffit cladding on exposed lintel underside • Do not cut lintels to length or modify them Construction HowTo building =================================================== Don't forget to stay up to date with Skill Builder! Get in touch and send us your pictures and videos - Join our mailing list - See our Tweets - See our Facebook Page -



What people get wrong with a  Recip Saw-  HiKOKI

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Roger takes us through the best practices of using a recip saw with the Hikoki CR36DA 36V Reciprocating Saw. *Sponsored by HiKOKI* ______________________ Reciprocating saw with a brushless motor. Powered by multi-volt batteries for output similar to mains powered tools. Orbital cutting mechanism. 4-stage plus variable speed control. Toolless blade fitting and shoe adjustment. LED work light. Folding rafter hook. Supplied with carry case. • 2 x 2.5Ah Li-Ion Batteries • 4-Speed Variable • Quick-Release Blade Change • 32min Charge Time • Electronic Brake • All-Metal Gearing • LED Work Light • Soft-Grip Handle HiKOKI Powertools Recip =================================================== Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.



Robin on Milwaukee Accessories & Hand Tools

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Sponsored by Milwaukee, Robin's in the accessories area in Dublin now and he's got his eye on a few new additions to his toolbox. Here's the kit Robin looks at: • Milwaukee 6 Inch Folding Jab Saw Compatible with Sawzall Reciprocating Saw Blade • Milwaukee Ratcheting PVC Pipe Cutter • Milwaukee SAWZALL Drywall Access Blade • Milwaukee SAWZALL Flush Cut Blade • Milwaukee The TORCH with Carbide Teeth • Milwaukee SAWZALL Special Application Blade • Milwaukee 6 - 35mm Step Drill MilwaukeeTools SAWZALL Accessories =================================================== Tell us what you like: Get in touch, send us your pictures and videos: Twitter: Facebook: Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we will remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.


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